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Natural Beauties

By New You Editorial
Posted On May 10, 2017
Natural Beauties

From decade to decade, our skin requires understanding, tenderness, openmindedness, and experimentation to be the best it can be. Here: a lifetime of lovely.

by Anne-Marie Guarnieri

It’s hard to believe, in this era of wearable computers and at-home DNA testing, that no one has bottled the Fountain of Youth. Yet. But brands are intent on doing just that. According to market research firm NPD, 52 percent of the skin- care products sold in the US from September 2012 to 2013 had some kind of anti-aging benefit—up 8 per- cent from the previous year. And, it’s not just older women: Women ages 25–34 are investing in anti-aging skincare in nearly equal numbers. Most dermatologists agree: All the lotions and potions in the world won’t do a bit of good without the basics. You still have to wear sunscreen, eat well, sleep well, and say no to smokes. “Your genetics and lifestyle affect how aging progresses,” says Manhattan dermatologist Doris Day. Here’s our expert guide to skincare through the ages, complete with products and procedures (non- invasive and surgical) for women of every decade.

The 70s


Sallowness, significant wrinkling, and volume loss. “The question is whether you want surgery or a non-invasive approach to improve your skin,” says Neil Sadick, a dermatologist in New York City.


“There’s a lot of overlap in skin quality in the 60s and 70s,” Sadick says. “There’s not as much separation as there is when dealing with someone in their 20s, 30s, or 40s.” If your regimen looks similar to what you were doing in your 60s, you will want to start rotating your products with greater frequency, or using certain ones less often to stave off redness or dryness. “It’s good to alternate a retinoid for collagen stimulation a couple times a week at night, an AHA with hydroquinone for pigmentation reduction and cell turnover, and an antiinflammatory extract for redness and the improvement of sallowness,” says Dr. Sadick. For the latter, he recommends Dior Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Crème, which he helped develop.


For patients seeking a noninvasive approach, there are other options: Ulthera (ultrasound), Thermage (radio-frequency), PrecisionTx (laser), or Venus (laser)—alone or in tandem, depending on a patient’s goals and skin quality. If you’re ready, surgeries such as endoscopic brow lift, rhinectomy, or full facelift are all worth investigating—even for women into their 70s. Such women, says Dr. Day, “don’t have to go back every 10 years for more. They can continue with their skincare and get a lot more longevity out of the treatments.”

The 60s


Increased sagginess around the eyelids and neck, often caused by lack of sun protection, notes Dr. Day.


Your daily regimen is all about adding and retaining moisture with both your cleanser and moisturizer. “You have to supplement the skin a little more so that it has all the nutrients it needs to repair,” advises Dr. Day. Look for a cream-based cleansing formula like Dr. Haushka Cleansing Cream that won’t strip the skin’s essential natural oils. In moisturizer, look for glycerin— heavy for normal or combination skin types, but ideal for aging skin. Try Lancôme Absolue L’Extrait.


“You have to be religious about your sun care because your skin is more vulnerable—you’re not repairing it as well,” says Dr. Day. “Don’t think, Oh, all the damage is done. You have to be even more careful about using the proper type of protection all year long.”


Switch out a gel-based formula, which can be too drying, for a creamier option like ReFissa or Renova, which is better tolerated by drier skin.


Dr. Day’s Revision Skincare Teamine Eye Complex, packed with peptides, antioxidants, and natural brighteners that help diminish dark circles and pesky puffiness.

IN-OFFICE TREATMENTS For slackening skin of the neck, Day uses Ulthera ultrasound technology. For patients with dark spots or deep lines around the forehead or mouth, she recommends the TotalFX CO2 laser— a full-face resurfacing for deep and superficial lines, as well as sun spots. It also helps stimulate new collagen, so skin appears tighter. There are other benefits: “All that sun-damaged skin that’s on its way to becoming pre-cancerous or cancerous is gone,” says Dr. Day. The recovery time is about a week to 10 days, with results lasting up to a year.

The 50s


Dullness and first signs of volume loss. “My patients say, ‘My skin doesn’t have a glow and it’s not plump any more,’” says Dr. Marko Lens, a Londonbased plastic and reconstructive surgeon, and the founder of the skin-care line Zelens. “The wrinkles are not so much a concern as the loss of plumpness.”

KEY PRODUCTS Use your preferred daily cleanser, sunscreen, and nightly retinoid.


Add in an option that contains alpha-hydroxy acid, such as Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel, to address lingering dullness issues. Alternate it with your retinoid to prevent irritation or redness until your skin can tolerate both.


Look for daily moisturizers with intense hydration and stronger anti-aging properties, like Olay Regenerist Deep Hydration Regenerating Cream. Formulated with peptides, it helps boost collagen production, temporarily giving the appearance of plumper skin. “At this age, you want something much richer,” says Dr. Lens. “Peptides in combination with retinol give the most visible results.” He recommends his own Zelens 3-T Complex Essential Anti- Aging Cream, which contains ursolic acid extracted from rosemary, and has a number of anti-inflammatory properties.


Using a moisturizing mask at night, or anytime the skin feels particularly parched or tight, will lend benefits right away, says Dr. Lens. Try SK-II Facial Treatment Mask—a sheet mask)—or Juara Avocado Banana Moisture Mask.


With little time in their schedule for recovery, most 50-something women typically don’t want a major surgical procedure. Says Lens: “They want alternatives to full facelifts.” These include fillers and blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery)—minimally invasive procedures with less downtime. The neck area also becomes a focus during these years. The Titan laser tightens loose skin around the neck and jowls, and requires up to three sessions over the course of six months. “I’ve had good results,” Dr. Lens said. “It’s not for lifting, but for what it does, it does a good job.”

The 40s


Loss of hydration, brought on by perimenopause, which starts anywhere from the early 40s to early 50s.


Tweak your regime with products such as non-foaming cleansers that moisturize (CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser or Nuxe Comforting Cleansing Milk with Rose Petals), a hydrating eye cream, and a sunscreen such as Perricone MD Photo Plasma Broad Spectrum SPF 30.


At night, swap out your retinol for a moisturizer that contains hyaluronic acid, which can help the skin retain water. Try products such as Peter Thomas Roth VIZ-1000 Hyaluronic Acid Complex.


In addition to regular facial chemical peels, Dr. Jeannette Graf, a dermotologist in New York, recommends the Glytone by Enerpeel TCA-LP System for intense under-eye circles— the kind that even the best concealer can’t hide. It contains a low dose of TCA, the acid frequently used in higher-concentration chemical peels. “This system gets to the deeper layers where the pigment is,” Graf says.

As they start noticing frown lines, crow’s feet, and mouth lines, 40-ish women start looking at Botox and fillers such as Juvéderm, Belotero, or Sculptra. “The younger you are when you start these procedures, the longer they last,” says Dr. Graf.

The 30s


Thirty-somethings may not yet show aging, but they may be dealing with other issues such as scars from teenage acne, adult acne, and sun-spotting.


Acneprone skins can benefit from cleansers with alicylic acid such as Murad Acne Complex Clarifying Cleanser.

SUNBLOCK Graf likes EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 for under makeup, or Avène High Protection Tinted Compact SPF 50. It can be used on and around the eyes.


Look for those with antioxidants to protect against free-radical damage and aging like Glytone Antioxidant Anti-Aging Facial Serum.


“It doesn’t have to be prescription-strength,” but be sure to use some type of retinoid, says Dr. Graf. StriVectin-AR Advanced Retinol Night Treatment works well.


Depending on how skin behaves, procedures such as light chemical peels and microdermabrasion can treat acne, oily skin, and unsightly clogged pores.