Nicole Miller On The Power Of The Pivot, Remaining At The Top Of Her Game And Expanding Her Fashion Empire

NICOLE MILLER has been a household name and fashion staple for four decades. The brand’s unique aesthetic and timeless pieces paired with high-quality finishes have undoubtedly allowed it to remain one of the world’s pre-eminent fashion brands. NICOLE MILLER’s continued evolution has led to its success and growth throughout the years, which can be attributed to the trailblazing force and leadership of Nicole Miller. Now the eponymous brand spans beyond fashion, leaning into a global lifestyle business, ranging from rugs to furniture, bedding, towels, and even cookware. 

NEW YOU chatted with the multi-faceted business woman about her unwavering love for fashion at an early age, mastering her management style, and how New York City is a source of inspiration behind her most innovative fashion collections. 

NEW YOU: From a young age, did you always know you would get into the fashion industry?

Nicole Miller: I was always obsessed with fashion. My mother was from Paris, and we always had fashion magazines come to the house from France. I lived for those magazines! 

NY: Your name is synonymous with New York City. Why do you think that is, and how do you find inspiration in the city?

NM: I’m known for being a New York designer because I’m based in New York, and my entire career has been in New York City. Often when I haven’t had a chance to travel or go someplace and get inspiration elsewhere, I’ve used New York City as my inspiration. Many iconic things are here, from the Empire State Building to the Chrysler Building. There’s beautiful architecture, gardens, and parks, and it’s a great place to live.

NY: What about NICOLE MILLER has allowed it to remain one of the world’s pre-eminent fashion brands?

NM: We’ve always maintained a youthful attitude where I attract the younger customer, and we didn’t age with our customers. I would go to a store, and the mother and daughter would buy a dress to share sometimes, or the mother would buy the daughter the dress because she approved of it. They could both agree on my dress, but they didn’t agree on many other things. I’ve always listened to my younger assistants and tried to stay current with the music and what’s going on culturally and not be closed-minded. 

NY: What is one of the biggest lessons you’ve learned as a leader along your journey? 

NM: The true learning lessons of life are always getting stuck with inventory. So I became a master fabric manipulator in that process because we were often stuck with a print that we thought would sell and didn’t. That’s one of the big learning lessons I had over the years, and that’s one thing I always tell young designers that’s important for them to learn. It’s always better to have a more conservative approach early on until you gauge what happens. However, sometimes you can’t avoid disaster! 

Once, we sold several thousand units to Saks [Fifth Avenue] of this skirt and matching top, and all the beads popped off the top. We had to take them all back because a production person hadn’t checked the production. The learning lesson is that things always go wrong in the clothing business.

NY: Do you have three tips that you share with interns or someone just starting in your office? 

NM: I always tell them never to say never, don’t be stubborn, and be open-minded. You may want to do one thing, but you should be open to other opportunities. Whenever there’s an opportunity, take it. Go for it all the time. 

NY: Have you mastered the art of creating a work-life balance? 

NM: I never created the right balance because when we used to have runway shows all the time, we worked 30 days straight before the show and would work every weekend. My son was little, and I should have taken the weekends off. As time passed, I thought, ‘We’re not going to work weekends anymore or only work one day, or we’d alternate weekends so everybody would have a weekend off.’ You have to make time for the most important things, and there’s always a way that you can work it out.

NY: What’s next for you? What can we look forward to seeing from you this year?

NM: We’re branching out with our licensing. We have many new things going on, like an entire lifestyle brand. We have everything from shoes and handbags to rugs, furniture, bedding, and towels. We’re trying to expand that whole area. I’m also a great cook! I love to cook, and that’s one of my fun hobbies. We have a cookware license and all these great knives and dishes. I’m looking forward to expanding in that area of the business.

NY: What legacy do you want people to remember most about the impact of NICOLE MILLER as both a person and a brand?

NM: I hope everybody knows how I like to make women look beautiful and give them confidence. Dresses were my mainstay, but many people will remember me for all the iconic prints I did over the years, and they’re coming back. They’re all very popular again, so I hope they have a second wind.

NY: After all these years, what is one of the most flattering things you’ve ever heard, and how does it make you feel? 

NM: One of the most flattering things I’ve heard after all these years is that every great woman has a NICOLE MILLER dress in her wardrobe. I sure hope that’s true! That means so much to me because I love my job and career. I’m still designing, and I still love doing it all. I hope those young women keep those clothes in their wardrobes.

I’ve also had a big wedding business, and it’s important that I’m a part of someone’s special day. I’ve dressed many bridesmaids and people for their engagement parties, rehearsal dinners, and special events. It’s such an honor to be a part of everybody’s lives that they’ve chosen me for their special occasion.

Photography Fadil Berisha for NEW YOU

Styling Derek Warburton
Hair Lijima Mako
Makeup Emi Koizumi using @derek.fabulous @facestockholm

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